Mowalola Spring/Summer 2025
"people died" and it's just Mowalola
The disappointment this brand has bought time and time again is…. actually something that I think isn’t their fault (entirely), honestly. There’s a lot of (unenlightened) fashion journalists, and enthusiasts who will (because of their ignorance) hype up damn near anything. Which, in my opinion, is one of the causes of the sanitization of critiques in fashion today. With that being said, had I not read some of the Mowalola S/S25 coverage and thought pieces before hand, I would’ve went in with no expectations and not have been as…. underwhelmed as I was. So, that was my fault.
However,
with the founder (Mowalola Ogunlesi) being Nigerian I definitely expected something more interesting and less…. tired. The truth remains, money (and privilege) does not breed innovation, or creativity…. some things you just have to be born with (although some believe you can get it with time and experience).
I think it’s something that you indeed have to born with and it is cultivated throughout an artist’s life.
Not familiar with Mowalola by Mowalola Ogunlesi?
Mowalola’s recognition picked up when Naomi Campbell was spotted wearing the brand’s gun shot gown.
(SIDE NOTE: performative activism will NEVER be it for me. This dress would’ve been better received (by me) if it came from someone who actually spoke up against injustices and doesn’t place their morals in a dollar and (surround themselves with) shitty men. Long story short I liked the dress, but I did not like the messenger)
The dress was part of the artist’s ‘Coming For Blood’ collection – a delving into the horrific feeling of falling in love.
The designer went on to receive recognition from a few publications since then (publications aren’t what they used to be, they’ve sold out and quite frankly the bar is in hell), and even secured a collaboration with Kanye West Ye (this is clearly not the same Mr. West) creating the tank top that was worn around the world Instagram.
Anyway
a few days ago Mowalola showcased their Spring/Summer 2025 collection and I have a few words...
Mowalola is no innovator or “culture disruptor” to me.
The collection features- you guessed it- skin tight, cropped/micro clothing with a sexual word, in a block font boldly across the article of clothing. The word this time being “EBONY”. The (African-)American influence in the collection barely subtle. The collection taking some inspiration from….. “dirty” pop (culture) (and sex workers too), and yet still managing to come off as boring in my opinion.
I’ve read a couple of takes on the collection.
& what i’ve found?
People digging through scraps to find some profound/progressive message in the collection.
A tight fitted latex t-shirt with the word ebony, was “more than a fashion statement” (lol). It “kicked up conversations about race, identity, and belonging, inviting the audience to reflect on their relationship with themes on display”
….. Where? Where the hell were these (conducive) conversations about race, identity and belonging were taking place. Like please, be for real. I’m all for risque and raunchy by all means, but please they’re certainly no Nelson Mandela because just for being risque and raunchy alone.
“Mowalola had once again succeeded in doing what she does best: challenging the status quo.”
……. Skinny, light-skinned, pale-skinned, (and a few brown skins for good measure) walking down a runway scantily clad. Oh, yes! What a big “fuck you” to the status quo. Black people walking down the runway sagging and the word “Ebony” branded on them, LOL yea.
Please. Be so for real.
My Thoughts.
Overall I feel the collection was pretty cohesive (if you pretend that EBONY branding, and latex shit wasn’t a thing). I believe they definitely could’ve did without the “Ebony” branding latex mess. It had potential to be a moment but it was just executed so poorly. No flair, no pizzazz it gave nothing.
Animal print has been an upward trend for some months now. I think we’re approaching the peak now and we will definitely continue to see it for the rest of the year and I am not complaining. With the colder season approaching animals won’t just be trending for their patterns either. PETA get your pitchforks ready!
I love love fur, but I really, really, really love a good cowhide. The use of the cattle’s natural hair and its aleatory color and patterns, pairing it with a solid color leather is just *chef kiss*!
-
She also includes some looks that are obviously streetwear (which is heavily influenced by Black people and popularized by Black Americans) inspired. With the light colors, strategic airbrushing and soft blurred lines, leather and fur it brings a subtle eerie, but sexy look to the streetwear looks. I love it.
The coochie high boots are disgusting, I must admit OMG! I will definitely be looking out for when they are online for purchase. I also liked the looks with the face coverings, but the word “Ebony” being the word being displayed while obscuring the Black model’s face (as they walk down a runway with hundreds of white and non Black eyes following them) is leaving a very terrible taste in my mouth. I don’t care what the intention was, it’s very amiss to me that not one person on that team had a critical thought and said “You know, this is actually not a very good look.”
Some things included in the collection that just made absolutely no sense… It’s like she has a natural allegiance to being a performative loser like…… I mean I don’t know how else to put it?
like??
The art should “sell” itself, without the help of controversy. There’s no answer that’s not rooted in bullshit that would make this make any sense….. Not to me atleast. “New Blacks” have this thing for doing something completely ignorant, distasteful, far from conducive and just plain embarrassing to anyone with any type of sense or racial esteem/pride and thinking they’re breaking barriers like….. Unfortunately you are not the first token Black to be allowed into this industry…… Get another gimmick.
Mowalola gets a lot of hate for her shitty politics and optics (and honestly wack her again), but aside from that as a designer I don’t see the hype. I watched her interview with Kids Take Over on YouTube, and she gave…. nothing. Not a misunderstood, troubled artistic genius, not someone wanting to truly and drastically challenge norms, not someone struggling to convey and express something beyond the average socialized human’s comprehension... I suppose she’s exciting and innovative to people who aren’t really into or knowledgeable about fashion. Maybe the excitement is the fact that she is young and Black, yet still privileged enough to occupy a little piece of space within the industry, but again this has been done before. The fashion industry has changed, and is the most inclusive it has ever been. Fashion publications and critics are the nicest they have ever been. Due to social media gatekeeping is harder than ever. Some may say this was for the best, while others may argue it was for the worst. Whatever side you occupy it seems as if the fashion industry has definitely felt this truth and there’s a saying:
If you can’t beat them, join them.
I think that's why the show was so loud. I mean, full of increasingly insane scenes, distracting us from clothes that gave absolutely nothing. I'm an intern for a magazine, and I had to write about the show without giving my real opinion, but in reality, apart from the "chaotic"/"crazy" moments, the collection itself brought nothing.
You left not one drop of crumb. Ha! I thought I was the only person that could see through her “persona” she’s not as interesting as she looks. Some people just have that Je ne sais quoi about them but she’s not one of them! This take also reminds me of ASAP Rocky fashion show he did, hot ass mess, he called it satire but Rocky you never been affiliated with any form of activism so you use fashion as a message? Nah… trash. All these bitches Rosa Parks, get ya ass up!